This post is about everything you need to remove doll paint without nail polish remover. If price is a factor, some items can be replaced with cheaper ones, but a few are non-negotiable. There are many exciting things at this stage, so I’ll keep it short.
You will need:
- Mr. Super Clear
- Cotton balls and buds
- Soap and water (cleaning wipes are also helpful)
- Face mask
Before creating your masterpiece, you need to remove the factory paint. This can be done with thinner or sanding, but it is recommended to use thinner on your hair (if you wash off all solvents with warm, soapy water)
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as it is less likely to damage the vinyl.
It’s best to use 100 reference tones at this point. Acetone is the active and primary ingredient in nail polish remover. If you don’t have pure acetone, you can use nail polish remover, but it won’t work.
Use a cotton swab and a ball to wipe off the factory paint. Then wash off the acetone with warm water and soap. It is essential to remove all acetone as acetone will corrode the vinyl if left on.
However, do not use acetone to remove paint from the bodywork. It affects the plastic very quickly. It will melt the doll. It is also challenging to remove the solvent from the joint. This will weaken the plastic a lot, and after a few days, it will start to crack. Trust me; you don’t want this to happen. Loose plastic will break under any pressure.
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Yes, to remove factory paint from the body. On fine sandpaper 400-600, Frankie’s needles are usually fine. Gently sand the surface in circular motions. The paint peels off reasonably quickly, but be patient and don’t press too hard. The doll may be scratched too profoundly. If it looks scratched after removing the paint, use finer sandpaper to smooth it out.
* Make sure you have plenty of cotton swabs and do not repeatedly wipe with the same cotton. The paint transfers from the cotton to the doll’s face, creating a messy mess.
* It may be challenging to enter between the lips. Take a toothpick and gently wrap the tip with cotton to squeeze the doll’s balls. You can fill in the crevices with a small cotton swab while inflating.
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Before working on the (now faceless) doll, the vinyl must be sealed with Mr. Super Clear (MSC). MSC is one of the non-negotiable products I’ve mentioned. Critical “notches” where pigments attach, providing a truly matte finish. The other sealants I used were glossy (although they claimed to be “matte”) and cracked easily, and didn’t have enough of the “teeth” mentioned. It may not be easy to find in stores, but it is widely available on the Internet.
Hold the can at a 45° angle about 20 cm from the doll’s face and spray again from side to side. Complete coverage is required, but don’t saturate them as they can cause sagging and take time to dry completely.
They seal your work as you progress, much like a “save” button.
* Be careful when squeezing the doll’s head after applying the sealant, as the surface
* Always tape before starting to prevent discoloration of the vinyl.
* It’s always suggested to use a face mask when using MSC to protect your lungs.
Removing factory paint the first time can be pretty tricky. Remember that we are working to improve our dolls, and it will be worth it in the end. If you’re afraid of starting all over again, start small. For example, remove only the lips or eyebrows and train only those areas.
The first doll you draw may not look what you imagined. It’s not easy and, like any other valuable thing, it requires practice. My first repaints were pretty horrifying, but I still put them on the shelves to remind me how far I’ve come.
Doll painting is such an excellent creative outlet, and above all, it’s fun – which is what dolls are supposed to be.